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A culinary storyteller seeks lightness in the tradition of Brkini and the Karst, adds a modern touch and her personal story.
Coincidences brought her to the world of cooking. The more she learned, the more she discovered her passion for cooking.
Ksenija becoming a chef was a coincidence. First, she fell in love with her husband and then with cooking. She became part of a catering family and the rest is history. As she helped and learned about the manner of work, she found that the restaurant has been operating for four generations precisely because the family is still together. She felt the weight of that realisation and decided that she should continue the tradition.
Because puddles of various ingredients and flavour fuse, and as you scoop them with a spoon, they create a symphony.
With a taste so full but gentle and sophisticated that makes other ingredients and various textures shine.
She started off with desserts. They were the first dishes that were left to her to make them on her own. The technical part of confectionery is also reflected in other dishes from her kitchen. “You follow your instincts when you make savoury dishes, but when you make desserts, you must stick to the quantities, procedures, technical instructions,” reveals Ksenija. This can also be noticed in plating. “Scattered has been fashionable for quite a few years. But not with me, there is order on my plates.”
“She looks for special elements of everything, something people can’t do at home.”
Her challenge is velvety texture without air bubbles. “To feel the richness of the flavour of vegetables,” says Ksenija. “Talent is important if you want to create your own dishes, when you have to tell something with your plate – who you are, why you prepared this dish and what your message is.” Ksenija also still cooks traditional dishes but with a seasonal touch. It begins with jota in the winter, followed by wild garlic soup, young peas with mint, barley, cauliflower with orange and truffles. In this way, she shows her respect for the region where she works and local producers. She learned a lot about respect for cooking from her grandmother who had acquired cooking skills from nuns. Ksenija keeps her handwritten recipes. She says that “they reflect respect for cooking.”
If it was to one’s taste is quite a different matter. Until Ksenija is convinced that the dish is really good, she does not leave the kitchen, She stands by her dishes and advocates the story they tell. “I know guests are delighted when they take time and compliment a dish for bringing back a memory. That is all that a cook wants. Regardless of awards, the most important compliment is when guests are satisfied.”
Like a lady who ordered a celebration menu and left it to Ksenija to choose it. It was in the winter and kohlrabi peaked. When the celebrator found out that she would be serving kohlrabi soup, she almost panicked. Her brother does not like kohlrabi, he must not see or smell it, as he has been resenting it since early childhood. “The next day, the lady took time, called and thanked her. She asked for the kohlrabi soup recipe because her brother cannot praise it enough or forget it.”
She always follows her instinct when cooking, but every interesting event or meeting with a special person leaves a mark. Only knowledge and talent are not enough. It needs passion. And Ksenija has plenty of it. This was recognised by Gault&Millau Slovenia, so they awarded her with the title of the best pastry chef in 2020. “I was surprised that they picked me in the multitude of creative and successful people. At the same time, this brings a lot of responsibility, as people now expect a certain state they have created themselves.”
Photo: Dean Dubokovič, Gostilna Mahorčič archive
Culinary masterpieces of one of the best Slovenian confectioners.
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