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The rise of the cocktail scene in the capital

 

Slovenians have always been a wine-loving nation, as evidenced by the many and diverse wine-growing regions, internationally recognised winemakers and the sight of tables along the Ljubljanica river. However, influenced by trends from abroad and the rising culture of both drinking and gastronomy, tastes are, if not changing, at least broadening. In the capital, this has translated into a growing appreciation for quality cocktails.

In recent years, the cocktail scene in Ljubljana has flourished, evolving into a diverse and creative part of the city’s culture that is gaining recognition. Alongside wine bars, cocktail bars have sprung up, offering classic favourites such as the Mojito, Margarita, Aperol Spritz and Negroni, as well as innovative creations inspired by global mixology trends and enriched with local ingredients, particularly herbs and domestic spirits – a combination that seems to appeal to both locals and tourists.

Vrt Beli volk
Foto: Suzan Gabrijan

The development of mixology in Slovenia is also evident in the offerings of high-end restaurants – whether in the form of signature welcome cocktails, as has become customary at Hiša Franko, for example, where you might be served an aperitif capturing the essence of the Soča Valley in the garden, or refined non-alcoholic drinks, as perfected by restaurants like Milka and Grič.

The growing popularity of cocktails that go beyond the typical Mojito on the beach or an Aperol Spritz on the Trieste promenade is also reflected in the high attendance at events such as the Brina Cocktail Festival in Ljubljana, where every June in Križanke, local distillers, bartenders and boutique producers showcase their craft.

All our interviewees agree that their main goal is to build and nurture a cocktail culture in Slovenia.

Kolibri

When you enter Kolibri, you get the feeling that you've not only entered a space with a warm, intimate and sexy atmosphere, but also been transported from Ljubljana to one of the world's great capitals.

This feeling is spot on, because until Kolibri opened in 2018 on the corner of Židovska cesta, there was no cocktail bar like it in the area. Kolibri was the first to break new ground and set the trend – although it took several more years before others followed suit.

Before Kolibri, although classic cocktails were served in bars along the Ljubljanica, no one dared to open a true cocktail bar where the bartender mixes drinks to your liking, where the space resembles American speakeasies from the Prohibition era and where great attention is paid to the bar’s design.

Kolibri
Foto: Suzan Gabrijan

Kolibri is the brainchild of its manager, Saša Hess, who transitioned from advertising, directing and photography to shaping the complete visual identity of bars.

Over the years, Kolibri’s interior has changed: the old sideboard behind the bar has been repositioned, and the extravagant lights that discreetly illuminate the bar and the floral wallpapers have been replaced. Currently, the wallpapers are striking, bold red-green-blue with floral and monkey prints in the style of The White Lotus.  Glowing bouquets made of synthetic materials serve as decorations, and the seats are upholstered in leather and velvet.

“The initial inspiration for Kolibri came from speakeasies, but above all, it’s about moving away from the traditional bar experience and engaging all the senses through colour, taste, scent and music. Cocktails are only part of it. This is a space dedicated to creativity,” says head bartender Anže Testen.

Testen is also responsible for the seasonal cocktail menu, which keeps up with trends both abroad and at home.

Kolibri
Foto: Suzan Gabrijan

The Nest, Chamomile Melody, Berry & Burn and Bazaar are the names of their summer cocktails, which are mostly fruit-based and bubbly. Bazaar – a mix of tequila, dill, pepper, mint, cumin, black lemon, and sparkling wine – is described as “spicy, herbal, lively.” Berry & Burn, made with whiskey, raspberries, lapsang souchong tea, and sparkling wine, is described as “smoky, fruity, bold.” These descriptions help drinkers choose the one that suits them best.

“Slovenians tend to go for the safer option: sweet, fresh and tried and tested. Americans are much more willing to experiment,” explains Testen, who serves many tourists, but also many regular guests.

He observes that Slovenia is slowly catching up with other countries. “But we must not rush, because the people have to be ready to embrace all these new things, otherwise all our efforts will be wasted,” he remarks, carefully finishing off the bright red Berry & Burn with tweezers.

JAZ by Ana Roš

Since Hiša Franko was the first top-class Slovenian restaurant to expand its offering with a cocktail menu, hiring the renowned Italian mixologist Dom Carella to create it. So it was only logical that cocktails would also form a key part of the concept of Ana's Ljubljana branch, JAZ.

This bistro-style restaurant (Ana prefers the term “young dining”), which opened in 2023, builds on Hiša Franko philosophy of using local and seasonal ingredients, along with signature dishes such as fermented cottage cheese, Franko’s roast beef, Istrian tomato salsa and venison, and on its visual identity, reflected in the staff uniforms.

Head chef Alex Iacoviello is Italian and was part of Hiša Franko’s team years ago. He then tried his hand at restaurants in his homeland, but has now returned to Slovenia. He serves one of JAZ’s staples: bruschetta with oyster mayonnaise, anchovies, tomato, and basil.

Mansur Babača, who has been responsible for the drinks menu from the very beginning, has found inspiration in the bruschetta for his fresh summer creation, a gin-based drink containing lacto-fermented cherry tomato water, basil and habanero chili. “It’s a combination of two modern classics, Bloody Mary and Gin Basil Smash,” he explains.

He uses Slovenian ingredients wherever possible, even when it comes to gin, as the selection available in Slovenia has grown considerably in recent years. My favourites are Karakter and Broken Bones gin, which I like because of their strong juniper flavour,” he says.

JAZ by Ana Roš
Foto: Suzan Gabrijan

On JAZ’s shelves, you will always find Berke’s spirits and Tutto’s bitters from Slovenia, although the latter are more often enjoyed as digestifs after dinner.

JAZ’s menu features nine house cocktails, which change seasonally. However, two remain on the regular menu and are popular with guests: Kinky Sour, made with white rum, mint and tonka syrup, and apple verjus, and Palomita, made with mezcal, grapefruit and lime juice, and melon.

As Babača says, each cocktail has its own audience, but at JAZ they aim to be flexible and cater to the Ljubljana crowd, known for being rather discerning.

All managers of new cocktail bars in Ljubljana emphasise the educational component, and JAZ is no exception. At JAZ, for example, they currently mix Illumino di Immenso, a whiskey-based cocktail containing brown butter, cocoa nibs, clarified pear juice and thyme. “The goal is to make whisky more popular with Slovenian guests,” Mansur explains.

The young bartender loves to experiment, but every creation must be approved by Ana before it can be added to the menu. Ana’s passion for innovation is also evident in their limited selection of canned cocktails, including the one with gin and kombucha with fig leaves, which has been one of the most popular non-alcoholic accompaniments at Hiša Franko for several years.

JAZ by Ana Roš
Foto: Suzan Gabrijan

Silk & Fizz

Probably the most progressive and conceptually refined cocktail bar in the capital opened in March this year and immediately became a must-visit spot for all serious cocktail lovers.

It seems that everything Gregor Božičnik, who is also behind Romeo, Sushimama, Tokyo Piknik, Barra and Fetiche Patisserie, touches turns to gold. Božičnik says he had been determined to set up “the best cocktail bar in Slovenia” for some time.

Everything fell into place when he found the ideal space on Krojaška ulica in the old part of Ljubljana, which was originally intended to be a wine bar, but those plans by the Brda winemaker have never materialised. The location also attracted renowned young bartenders Gal Pilko and Jan Križaj, who had already established their own brand and built up a loyal following.

“Our primary goal is to build a cocktail culture here. Here, cocktails are still often associated with special occasions. We would like to change that,” explains Božičnik from behind the marble counter of the elegant, modern bar, which has subdued lighting and giant metal spheres that appear to be floating under the ceiling.

Silk & Fizz
Foto: Suzan Gabrijan

In a coordinated choreography, Gal and Jan mix the house version of Dirty Martini, one of Silk & Fizz’s most popular drinks. It is made with Grey Goose vodka, olive oil, basil and black olive distillate.

“The cocktails are very affordable; we usually build them around two or three flavours. But there are still layers,” Jan explains. “Some guests come just to have a drink and enjoy the atmosphere. For those who are more interested in our craft, there is a laboratory offering a more in-depth insight, which is why people from the Biotechnical Educational Centre also come to us to learn,” says the bartender, revealing the back of the bar with its state-of-the-art mixology equipment and shelves full of house distillates, ranging from rhubarb, coffee and lime to Sichuan pepper, peanut butter and even pretzels.

The latter is used in their Pretzel Negroni, which based on the idea that you should always have a little snack with your cocktail.

Silk & Fizz offers ten signature cocktails on the menu, which rotate regularly, as well as classic options such as the aforementioned Martini and Negroni – but with a twist. They are also committed to sustainability, so guests receive a welcome shot made from secondary ingredients – that day, it was a shot of lapsang, mint and pandan.

And although the new bar is located right in the middle of the tourist route, the team is proud that their primary clientele remains local guests, even at the peak of the season. Clearly, their mission to educate the Ljubljana public is a success.

Vrt Beli volk

Although there is the World's 50 Best Bars, a list for ranking cocktail bars around the world, it is clear that there are no objective criteria for determining which bar is the best. Some stand out for their concept, some for the quality of their cocktails, some for their atmosphere and some for their impressive interior design.

The Vrt Beli volk cocktail bar, which opened in December 2023 on the site of the former 18th-century Weiss & Wolf Inn, has undoubtedly become very popular with visitors thanks to its relaxed, welcoming atmosphere. The venue, which operates as an “all-day café with an emphasis on cocktails,” is located in a hidden atrium on Wolfova ulica, surrounded by old residential buildings in the centre of Ljubljana. It features the original statue of Julija Primic and is filled with greenery, creating a small idyllic oasis in the heart of the city.

Add to that a blend of music – on the last Friday of each month, they host a live DJ set – and you have a winning combination that locals in Ljubljana can’t resist. Despite its city centre location, there is only a handful of tourists who find their way to Vrt Beli volk. Apparently, the place is just too hidden for them.

Vrt Beli volk
Foto: Suzan Gabrijan

And it seems that the team behind Vrt is perfectly fine with that. The bar’s manager, renowned mixologist Dominik Gobec, entered the hospitality industry as a teenager, working for his father. As a student, he waited tables at Holiday’s Pub, where he developed a passion for cocktails. He then truly mastered the art of mixology at Moderna.

Later, he worked as a consultant in some of Slovenia’s best restaurants, such as Strelec and Milka, where he was part of the team when they earned their first and then second Michelin star.

But, as he says, a place like Vrt Beli volk suits him better now. “Everything is more relaxed here, and there’s a special satisfaction in knowing that you’re working for yourself,” he explains. He says he wants Vrt to remain just as it is – an unpretentious neighbourhood bar that is still at a high enough level to educate guests about cocktail culture.

As a rule, cocktails are affordable and not too strong (“The idea is that you can sit down and have two or three…”), but above all, the team behind the bar likes to experiment with “fun old classics, but high-quality ones,” such as the Tequila Sunrise that Dominik brings us, which is the perfect refreshment for such a scorching Ljubljana afternoon.

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