Rolling hills, lush forests, meandering meadows and abundant fruit trees stretch as far as the eye can see, with the scenic vista extending into the Austrian horizon. In the distance, the vine–clad slopes of the young winemaker Kobatl’s vineyards provide a picturesque backdrop as Katarina graciously pours Kobatl’s amber nectar into the glasses of guests on the inaugural evening of their retreat at the estate, which functions as a boutique hotel, a dining room and, for the past year, the family home of the Volčič family.

At the heart of the estate lies a communal table—a space where strangers convene as guests and depart as friends, united by the harmony of delectable cuisine and fine wines, accompanied by the gentle rhythms of poolside camaraderie. With six elegantly appointed rooms accommodating a maximum of twelve guests (with there usually being a few less), intimacy prevails, fostering an atmosphere of warmth and conviviality.

Amidst the tranquil embrace of the Goričko hills, initial hesitations melt away into genuine embraces after two days and nights. Perhaps it’s the charm of the hosts, or perhaps it’s the serene surroundings that effortlessly ease the burdens of urban life. Volčič has indeed crafted the perfect recipe—a haven of retreat and solace, yet to be fully explored in Slovenia.

“What’s my dream? Well, it was my dream, but I’ll be honest with you, on the first night here, I felt a twinge of anxiety thinking that I’d be here for the rest of my life,” confides Bine as he joins us after dinner. For those with wandering spirits, the notion of permanence, of reaching the final destination, can be unsettling—even amidst such serene surroundings.

The jolt of alarm triggered by this profound shift left Bine feeling somewhat paralysed; he admits that he had to relearn everything from scratch, from the art of cooking eggs to kneading bread dough, from crafting intricate dishes to washing up. It was a return to fundamentals. Yet, it’s precisely these fundamental elements that resonate most profoundly at Monstera Estate, particularly as guests gather around the grand open–air barbecue on that inaugural evening, eager to acquaint themselves amidst the fiery spectacle that mirrors the blazing hues of the setting sun.

Katarina prepares a welcoming spritzer instead of the customary sparkling wine, noting, “That’s what they enjoy around here.” Meanwhile, Bine expertly arranges courgettes sourced from a neighbouring organic farm atop the searing white coals.  Freshly baked bread bearing the distinct mark of Prekmurje tradition—and also Bine’s personal touch—is ceremoniously retrieved from the oven, accompanied by curds, slices of head cheese, pickled wild garlic flowers and the final flourish of pumpkin seed oil. In the midst of it all, Bine savours a sip of brandy generously provided by a neighbour, whilst expertly slicing fragrant, delectable portions.

Slowly, we all converge at an outdoor table nestled by the pool, as the evening’s rural mists gently envelop the meticulously pruned apple trees. Plate by plate, a culinary symphony unfolds before us: beef carpaccio, beetroot roasted to perfection in the glowing embers with a touch of Siberian blueberry vinegar, sourdough bread, roast carrots, oven–roasted new potatoes, and, as the pièce de résistance, a generous platter of succulent wood–oven roasted lamb from a neighbouring farm.

Bine Volčič, now 43 years old, has traversed a remarkable journey—from France’s famed Cordon Bleu cooking academy in Paris, to the helm of the kitchen in Moravske Toplice, where his affinity for Prekmurje first blossomed. From the iconic Promenade of Bled, where he melded classical culinary techniques with an innovative Asian flair, to the silver screens of MasterChef and An Restaurant Finds a Chef, culminating in the vibrant culinary scene of Ljubljana’s Monstera Bistro.

“In Ljubljana, it’s a constant struggle, and ultimately, you lose sight of who you’re fighting for. You strive to achieve something for yourself, but it feels futile. The only recourse is to embrace a lifestyle change,” he confides. “Physically demanding as it may be, as we’re on our own for everything, but mentally I’m much more calm and rested here. We both are.”

“Honestly, we don’t know yet whether the concept will work, we just know what we want and what we don’t want anymore,” they add. Both are equally involved in the project, with him in charge of the cooking and her in charge of the wine and the yoga classes that start the peaceful mornings at Monstera. At 7:30, the most fervent Zen enthusiasts gather in the yoga room, basking in the morning sun and harmonising their energies—and perhaps, forging connections with one another.  It’s yet another piece of the puzzle, illustrating the art of fostering connections among guests.

In the dining room, the breakfast tableau slowly takes shape, showcasing a delightful array of locally–sourced produce and artisanal offerings. Vibrant raw carrots from Maša and Aljaž’s organic farm sit alongside Bine’s meticulously pickled elderflowers and white asparagus, generously gifted by an Austrian farm due to their perceived imperfections. Homemade sourdough bread and creamy curds drizzled with pumpkin seed oil and adorned with pumpkin seeds complete the rustic spread.

Buttery biscuits crafted by Nina Vratarič’s nearby organic farm, yoghurt from a neighbouring dairy, and homemade Siberian blueberry juice mingle with apple juice sourced from the nearby Džaboka & Gruška estate. All the jams are also homemade.

“Last year we had a lot of time on our hands, we’ll see how much our enthusiasm will continue this year,” Bine muses with a chuckle. For the first time, he’s ventured into crafting his own charcuterie—delectable salami and succulent pork loin—while the eggs are freshly collected each morning from their very own hens.

During the day, there’s no structured programme; guests are free to explore the enchanting Goričko region at their leisure, a realm still shrouded in obscurity to many, secluded from the other parts of Slovenia. These aren’t just tourist spots; they exude an unmistakable charm, steeped in history and seemingly frozen in time—a quality that lends them an irresistible allure In recent years, an increasing number of newcomers have been captivated by the landscape, choosing to lay down roots and embark on their own unique ventures, much like Volčič.

Take, for instance, the tale of Monika and Lovro Vehovar, who collaborate with Bine as wild plant collectors and cultivators—an endeavour that’s truly one–of–a–kind. Monika is an ethnologist and cultural anthropologist by profession, while Lovro is a biologist, herbalist and permaculture planner, and together they run Korina Herbs, a living estate in the middle of the forest, where they live with their three children.

The mud and straw house, built without electricity or modern technology, looks like the one from a fairy tale, with a summer kitchen under the canopy, where Monika brews us coffee and offers us dried chestnuts from the autumn, which have acquired a nice caramel flavour.

We follow Lovro past wild patches of the garden, organically embedded in the forest—wild vines climb a cherry tree and threaten to outgrow it, beans seek a foothold on chestnuts, raspberries and blackberries mingle with fragrant medicinal plants, and by a narrow path, the porcini mushrooms Lovro picked that week are drying on a net.

The duo hosts foraging workshops and collects and grows medicinal, useful and edible plants on the estate. Guests can savour herbal teas and learn about the many uses of these botanical treasures.  They organise natural history days and workshops on herbalism, permaculture, straw knitting, distillation of essential oils, making pine ointment to treat skin and rheumatic problems, making homemade soap, and much more. In the company of their beloved goats, little Ilona frolics and whispers secrets into their furry ears, with Monika and Lovro insisting that they don’t really miss the outside world. Nature provides them with everything they need.

Another couple who have discovered their calling through a deep connection with nature are Aljaž and Maša of the mašAljaž Farm—organic cultivators who supply the Monstera estate with the majority of its fresh vegetables. Despite lacking prior farming experience, their passion for experimentation, coupled with a willingness to learn on the fly, has propelled them on a remarkable journey.

Aljaž and Maša, who both come from the film world, met on the set of the River of Love series and soon started looking for abandoned farms in the Gorička region. Like many, they planted their first garden during the covid pandemic and now deliver vegetables as far as Ljubljana, but are happy to have a network of local customers like Bine. From courgettes to cucumbers, a myriad of beans to an array of tomatoes, and even delicacies like purslane and marigolds, their farm boasts it all.

Not far from here lies the aforementioned Džaboka & Gruška estate, boasting contemporary rooms and architecture seamlessly integrated into its natural surroundings. For those seeking refreshing snacks and beverages on the way to the Monstera Estate, there is the charming Mala Rosa, where they specialise in rose–infused products, including their own gin.

In the evening, the scattered guests of Monstera will gather again at the Motovilci location for the grand finale of the weekend with Bine’s tasting menu, which this time combines more modern plates with Prekmurje traditions.

Dinner opens with a profiterole with bacon jam and pickled wild garlic flowers and a buckwheat rosette with grated lamb’s heart. Roasted baby corn with chicken skin butter is next, followed by a pie with tomatoes, tomato jam, hare’s foot clover and pumpkin seed oil mayonnaise. After that, probably the most extravagant dish, dry–aged rainbow trout with smoked trout chawanmushi custard and pickled carrots.

The second part is more rustic—buckwheat porridge with porcini mushrooms and chicken sauce is excellent, followed by sour pork leg soup and fried pork legs, and for the main course that evening, beef liver in a ragout with tarragon and a potato dumpling. The concluding sweet note  comes in the form of a caramelised apple with buckwheat crumble and bay leaf zabaione, which the Volčič’s have just brought back from their holiday in Dalmatia. For the digestif, a local gin with cinnamon, bay and coriander.

Despite its status as an exclusive boutique retreat,  where it is only possible to book a full weekend, the Volčič’s try to be as involved as possible in the local environment, both with a menu that pays homage to Prekmurje, and by working with small local suppliers and producers. And they are only at the beginning of their Goričko story.